• Set your thermostat comfortably low in the winter and comfortably
high in the summer. Install a programmable thermostat that is
compatible with your heating system.
• Use compact fluorescent light bulbs.
• Air dry dishes instead of using your dishwasher’s drying cycle.
• Turn off your computer and monitor when not in use.
• Plug home electronics, such as TVs and DVD players, into power
strips; turn the power strips off when the equipment is not in use (TVs
and DVDs in standby mode still use several watts of power).
• Lower the thermostat on your hot water heater to 120° F.
• Take short showers instead of baths.
• Wash only full loads of dishes and clothes.
• Look for the ENERGY STAR® label on home appliances and products.
ENERGY STAR products meet strict efficiency guidelines set by the U.S.
Environmental Protection Agency and the U.S. Department of Energy
Try these tips for making your entire home energy efficient. I moved to the Upper Penninsula, Michigan last August and started right away winterizing (for obvious reasons) my old and drafty home. Because I spent months working on all the energy tips, my utility bills are very reasonable and the home is very comfortable, even though it snows almost every day the temperature rarely goes above the 'teens'.
• Check the insulation levels in your attic, exterior and basement walls,
ceilings, floors, and crawl spaces. Visit www.energysavers.gov for
instructions on checking your insulation levels.
• Check for holes or cracks around your walls, ceilings, windows,
doors, light and plumbing fixtures, switches, and electrical outlets that
can leak air into or out of your home.
• Check for open fireplace dampers.
• Make sure your appliances and heating and cooling systems are
properly maintained. Check your owner’s manuals for the
recommended maintenance.
• Study your family’s lighting needs and use patterns, paying special
attention to high-use areas such as the living room, kitchen, and
outside lighting. Look for ways to use lighting controls—like occupancy
sensors, dimmers, or timers—to reduce lighting energy use, and
replace standard (also called incandescent) light bulbs and fixtures
with compact or standard fluorescent lamps.
Once I figured out how to make changes to correct energy losses, it became a matter of priority. I live on Social Security and after buying a home, money is not exactly flowing like water. Well, it does seem to flow out but not so much flowing in..lol. So by starting in the heat of the summer, it was possible to take care of the most important problems first. For me and my home it was ...new toilet first. Water conservation is always a big priority in my book not only because of the loss of money it causes but because of the environment.
I have decided that there are a few changes that will just have to wait until next year. Although they cost money losses, the cost of the repair compared to the cost of the money loss does not make it a wise choice to do at this point in time. Mine is new window treatments. The windows are single pane and most of them pretty old and do loose a certain amount of heat but not any where near the cost of replacing them will be. So, when I can more easily afford this change, I will have new windows installed.
Look at your situation and your budget and make a plan of attack so to speak. Here is what the experts have to say:
Heating accounts for the biggest chunk of a typical utility bill.
Once you assign priorities to your energy needs, you can form a whole
house efficiency plan. Your plan will provide you with a strategy for
making smart purchases and home improvements that maximize
energy efficiency and save the most money.
Another option is to get the advice of a professional. Many utilities
conduct energy audits for free or for a small charge. For a fee, a
professional contractor will analyze how well your home’s energy
systems work together and compare the analysis to your utility bills.
He or she will use a variety of equipment such as blower doors,
infrared cameras, and surface thermometers to find leaks and drafts.
After gathering information about your home, the contractor or auditor
will give you a list of recommendations for cost effective energy
improvements and enhanced comfort and safety. A good contractor
will also calculate the return on your investment in high efficiency
equipment compared with standard equipment.
Tips for Finding a Contractor
• Ask neighbors and friends for recommendations
• Look in the Yellow Pages
• Focus on local companies
• Look for licensed, insured contractors
• Get three bids with details in writing
• Ask about previous experience
• Check references
• Check with the Better Business Bureau
Checking your home’s insulation is one of the fastest and most cost
efficient ways to use a wholehouse approach to reduce energy waste
and make the most of your energy dollars. A good insulating system
includes a combination of products and construction techniques
that protect a home from outside temperatures—hot and cold, protect
it against air leaks, and control moisture. You can increase the comfort
of your home while reducing your heating and cooling needs by up to
30% by investing just a few hundred dollars in proper insulation and
sealing air leaks.
I would urge you to check into
Sealing Air Leaks
Warm air leaking into your home during the summer and out of your
home during the winter can waste a lot of your energy dollars. One of
the quickest dollar-saving tasks you can do is caulk, seal, and
weatherstrip all seams, cracks, and openings to the outside. You can
save 10% or more on your energy bill by reducing the air leaks in your
home.
Tips for Finding And Sealing Air Leaks
• First, test your home for air tightness. On a windy day, hold a lit
incense stick next to your windows, doors, electrical boxes, plumbing
fixtures, electrical outlets, ceiling fixtures, attic hatches, and other
locations where there is a possible air path to the outside. If the
smoke stream travels horizontally, you have located an air leak
that may need caulking, sealing, or weatherstripping.
Sources of Air Leaks in Your Home
Areas that leak air into and out of your home cost you lots of money.
Check the areas listed below.
Dropped ceiling
Water heater and furnace flues
Window frames
Recessed light
All ducts
Electrical outlets and switches
Attic entrance
Door frames
Plumbing and utility access
Sill plates
Chimney flashing
The local Hardware/Lumber Yard store carries great kits for these issues and if you buy them early in the year you are more likely to get great deals.
How To Stop Drafts and Save On Energy Bills
ReplyDeleteImagine leaving a window open all winter long -- the heat loss, cold drafts and wasted energy! If your home has a folding pull-down attic stair, a whole house fan, a fireplace or clothes dryer, that may be just what is occurring in your home every day.
Drafts from these often overlooked holes waste energy and cost you big in the form of higher energy bills. Drafts are the largest source of heating and cooling loss in the home.
Drafts occur through the small cracks around doors, windows, pipes, etc. Most homeowners are well aware of the benefits that caulk and weatherstripping provide to minimize energy loss and drafts.
But what can you do about drafts from the four largest “holes” in your home -- the folding attic stair, the whole house fan, the fireplace and the clothes dryer? Here are some tips and techniques that can easily, quickly and inexpensively seal and insulate these holes.
Attic Stairs
When attic stairs are installed, a large hole (approximately 10 square feet) is created in your ceiling. The ceiling and insulation that were there have to be
removed, leaving only a thin, unsealed, sheet of plywood.
Your attic space is ventilated directly to the outdoors. In the winter, the attic space can be very cold, and in the summer it can be very hot. And what is separating your conditioned house from your unconditioned attic? That thin sheet of plywood.
Often a gap can be observed around the perimeter of the attic door. Try this yourself: at night, turn on the attic light and shut the attic stairway door -- do you see any light coming through?
If you do, heated and air-conditioned air is leaking out of these large gaps in your home 24-hours a day. This is like leaving a window or skylight open all year ‘round.
An easy, low-cost solution to this problem is to add an insulated attic stair cover. An attic stair cover seals the stairs, stopping drafts and energy loss. Add the desired amount of insulation over the cover to restore the insulation removed from the ceiling.
Whole House Fans and Air Conditioning Vents
Much like attic stairs above, when whole house fans are installed, a large hole (up to 16 square feet or larger) is created in your ceiling. The ceiling and insulation that were there have to be removed, leaving only the drafty ceiling shutter between you and the outdoors.
An easy, low-cost solution to this problem is to add a whole house fan shutter seal. Made from white textured flexible insulation, the shutter seal is installed over the ceiling shutter, secured with Velcro, and trimmed to fit. The shutter seal can also be used to seal and insulate air conditioning vents, and is easily removed when desired.
Fireplaces
Over 100 million homes, in North America are constructed with wood or gas burning fireplaces. Unfortunately there are negative side effects that the fireplace brings to a home, especially during the winter heating season. Fireplaces are energy losers.
Researchers have studied this to determine the amount of heat loss through a fireplace, and the results are amazing. One research study showed that an open damper on an unused fireplace in a well-insulated house can raise overall heating-energy consumption by 30 percent.
A recent study showed that for many consumers, their heating bills may be more than $500 higher per winter due to the drafts and wasted energy caused by fireplaces.
Why does a home with a fireplace have higher energy bills? Your chimney is an opening that leads directly outdoors -- just like an open window. Even if the damper is shut, it is not airtight.
Glass doors don’t stop the drafts either. The fireplace is like a giant straw sucking your expensive heated or air-conditioned air right out of your house!
An easy, low-cost solution to this problem is to add a Fireplace Plug to your fireplace. Available from Battic Door, a company known for their energy conservation products, the Fireplace Plug is an inflatable pillow that seals the fireplace damper, eliminating drafts, odors, and noise. The pillow is removed whenever the fireplace is used, then reinserted after.
Clothes Dryer Exhaust Ducts
In many homes, the room with the clothes dryer is the coldest room in the house. Your clothes dryer is connected to an exhaust duct that is open to the outdoors. In the winter, cold drafts in through the duct, through your dryer and into your house.
Dryer vents use a sheet-metal flapper to try to reduce these drafts. This is very primitive technology that does not provide a positive seal to stop the drafts. Compounding the problem is that over time, lint clogs the flapper valve causing it to stay open.
An easy, low-cost solution to this problem is to add a dryer vent seal. This will reduce unwanted drafts, and also keeps out pests, bees and rodents. The vent will remain closed unless the dryer is in use. When the dryer is in use, a floating shuttle rises to allow warm air, lint and moisture to escape.
For more information on Battic Door’s energy conservation solutions and products for your home, visit www.batticdoor.com or, to request a free catalog, send a self-addressed stamped envelope to P.O. Box 15, Mansfield, MA 02048.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Mark D. Tyrol is a Professional Engineer specializing in cause and origin of construction defects. He developed several residential energy conservation products including an attic stair cover and an attic access door. Battic Door is the US distributor of the fireplace plug. To learn more visit www.batticdoor.com